Ford F350 Triler Plug Wiring Diagram
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Found this old post.
I have a 2000 F450 7.3L. It has a dump body. I want to install the 7 blade plug'n play receptacle. I don't have the factory mating plug on the wire harness at the rear.
I bought this truck new and the dump body company I think they just cut into the wiring to install a 6 pin. It's a rat nest and I want to clean it up. I was looking for a wiring diagram to decipher what wires do what. There's one mystery wire. I'm also looking for the factory plug itself. I understand it's part of the entire wiring harness, but I'm wondering if there's one available somewhere.
The local Ford dealer printed out an illustration and I think the partial Ford part # for the harness is 14405.
Ford's plug'n play part #YC3Z-13A576-CA.
Thanks
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Check on ETrailer, they should have the plugs for plug and play.
On the OBS trucks there was two plug in pigtails for the 7 pin trailer plug that connected just above the hitch that went to the 7 pin.
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks
Yes, Etrailer has that plug assembly, and I'm planning on purchasing it.
In your photo, that plug assembly shown, is not on my truck. I'm looking for that plug, to allow the Etrailer assembly to plug into.
I'm sure the wires and plug were cut to do the original 6 pin that was outfitted on the truck. Dump body did a lousy job hooking up the tail lights. The wires were always too and I've lived with it for 20 years. I've had enough and I am replacing the tail lights and I want to address the trailer wiring and clean it up at the same time.
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Perhaps check out a wrecking yard. The harness for the F250, and F350's may be the same. Gas and diesel
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The attached should fix you up on wire colors.
Like bugman said, check the wrecking yards for the connectors you need to mate up with your adapter. The F450 should be the same as the lighter trucks. Heck even an F150 probably uses the same connectors.
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the info guys. I really appreciate it.
I stopped at a local trailer dealer and they me straight on the factory wiring. The F series have the same wire harnesses. If you ordered a tow pakage, they added the fuses and relays in the power distribution box in the engine compartment. Brake controller gets plugged into factory plug under steering wheel. Mine is like that already.
The plug at the end of the wire harness ended at the rear frame. It would have a blank in the plug to protect from the elements.
They figured as I did. The body company cut the factory plug off and wired in the 6 pin.
The trailer dealer however, had the replacement plug with about 3' of wire as a kit. So I have to connect the wiring in the kit, to the vehicle wiring with butt splices and shrink tubing. The plug on the end, plugs directly into the Hopkins #40975 receptacle combo 7 blade/4 pin
The trailer guys called it a US plug. I guess it's standard for all makes. What's nice is the receptacle can be be changed out if damaged without having to disassemble and re-wire. It's quick disconnect. Very clever.
Here's a different model by Hopkins on Amazon. Same idea. https://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-4114...=1587601223&sprefix=hopkins+7+,aps,675&sr=8-7
Love my 450. NEVER any issues in the 20 years since I purchased. Routine maintenance. Synthetic Rotella for years now. Only 135K miles. No trans or engine problems Lotsa power!!!
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Just a tip, you can get heat shrink but connectors. When they heat, they have a bit of "glue" that comes out.
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That Hopkins kit is essentially what has been the standard OEM set up for some time now and I agree that the plug-in harness is far superior than the wired up connectors. Especially for the cab and chassis trucks with dump bodies because they tend to take a beating. Replacing just the connector makes life much easier. It is common for body installers to hack up wiring and they commonly wire the body lights to the trailer circuits. Butt connectors are almost always the point of failure, even the one's with the sealant. Commonly I find the wrong size is used, the connector is punctured by the tool used for crimping and the sealant isn't effective and it just takes a little time for water to enter the connection and corrode.
If I may make a suggestion... use the Motorcraft kits that use a separate crimp connector and heat shrink tubing with sealing adhesive. They are the most effective for making a reliable, weatherproof and lasting wiring repair or installation. Each bag of 5 is a little pricey but well worth the expense IMHO. Google the size you need as they are available from different sources and you might save a couple of bucks. For most body wiring I commonly use the WT-56814 and WT-56815 splices.
- WT-56814 used for 22-18 AWG wire
- WT-56815 used for 16-14 AWG wire
- WT-56816 used for 12-10 AWG wire
- WT-56869 used for 8 AWG wire
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
That's good suggestion.
I actually completed the wiring a couple of days ago. I have a terminal kit and heat shrink tube kit that worked well. No need to crawl underneath the truck as I can lift the dump body for access near the fuel tank. That made life so much easier.
I checked pricing on that Ford kit-not really a bank breaker.
Thanks for the help.
Posted by: sidneybremme.blogspot.com
Source: https://www.thedieselstop.com/threads/wiring-diagram-for-trailer-plug-in.658742/